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Levels of compatibility

Here is my chart. I hope it helps new aquarists save

money and most importantly, fishes lives.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Passive

Neons

Cardinal tetras

Rummynose tetras

Glowlight tetras

Discus

Glass catfish

Black Neons

All corydoras catfish species

Otocinculus catfish

Kuhli loaches

Guppies, all types

Platys, all types

Swordtails, all types

Mollies, all types

Hatchetfish

Bettas

Dwarf Gouramies

White mountain minnows (White Clouds)

Rainbowfish

Community

Angelfish

Rams

Clown Loaches

Queen Botia

Gold Gourami

Blue Gourami

Leeri Gourami

Head & Tailight Tetra

Black skirt Tetra

Buenos Aires Tetra

Plecostomus catfish

All Corydoras species except Pygmy Corys

Bala Sharks

Red tail Sharks

Irredescent sharks

Rainbow Sharks

Silver dollars

All Rainbow fishes

Larger Swordtails

Larger Mollies (Sailfin varieties)

Larger Platys

Glass Catfish

Pictus catfish (smaller varieties)

Rope fish

Congo tetra

Upside down catfish

Bleeding Heart tetras

Black Ghost Knife (one per tank)

Elephant nose (one per tank)

Porthole catfish

Serape tetras

Geophagus Jurapari

Orange chromide

Pinktail Chalceus

Fish for Aggressive Aquariums

Aggressive aquariums usually house a small number of larger fish that may attack or even consume more submissive fish. Many “aggressive” species are beautiful to look at – and can live surprisingly long lives. When mixing aggressive species in a single aquarium, choose fish of comparable size and make sure you add some structure (plants, driftwood, etc.) so the animals can “stake out” territory and hide, if necessary. Aggressive aquarium species include:

• oscars

• Jack Dempseys

• red devil cichlids

• jewel cichlids

• convicts

• large plecostomus species

• green terrors

• piranhas (illegal in some states)

• carnivorous catfish

Dedicated to improving aquatic health.

Producing safe and

effective treatments for both fresh and

saltwater applications.

Buying a better fish.

Now to the more general topic of how to avoid “importing” disaster to your aquarium. Many hobbyists I hear from seem to have little faith in the advice of their dealer. This begs the question why if this be so, do they continue to buy from them. Sometimes geography will be the reason, but certainly this cannot always the answer.

Impetuosity is without doubt a major reason, as is the fact that we expect instant perfection with little input on our side.

The first thing to observe when selecting a dealer, is to find out how long they have been in business. This may be a little unfair to new entrants to the industry, but usually a store that has survived the first 3 years or more will make it, whilst failures, as in most kinds of business, will take place within the first 1-2 years. It would appear self evident, that those that make it, are usually more knowledgeable than those that do not. Also in many cases more ethical.

Secondly, does the store or/and its employees appear to have a good background in the science of fish keeping, or do you get the impression that they are trying to sell you some equipment or fish just to make a sale,.

Thirdly, do they take the time and trouble, to find out what kind of equipment you already use, and which species of fish you currently have in your set-up. This is important, because I find often, that hobbyists, have purchased incompatible fish, which then cause stress to each other, and subsequent disease outbreaks.

Fourthly, Does the store have some really magnificent show tanks, not only a reef tank, but also a planted fresh water aquarium, and in fact at least on example of how an aquarium should be , of the type YOU are interested in. It is notable to me, that in Japan, and many parts of Europe many stores appear to have as many “demonstration” not for sale tanks as they do, tanks from which they do sell. This does two important things for you the buyer. It enables you to have an idea of just how beautiful an aquarium can be, when maintained properly. It shows you that the store must know what they are talking about in how to keep such a beautiful show tank.

Fifthly, Are the tanks in the store clean, the water sparkling clear, and is there, as there should be a TOTAL lack of any dead or sick fish in the tanks. NEVER buy from a store where such evident examples of problems can be seen. Every store will have some sick fish, but the good stores, will firstly quarantine all new arrivals and treat them for a few days, and certainly will pay close attention to all and any signs of problems and remove them for treatment. Sometimes I have seen good stores that be treating a tank, and will have a paper or other screen over a tank during this period, with a sign saying “not for sale” or suchlike. This store is taking it’s responsibilities seriously and is likely a serious store.

Sixthly Is the fish or fishes you intend to buy eating properly. Have you seen them rush greedily for some food. Fish that are sick, or shortly to become so, very typically are sluggish or indifferent to feeding, and this is often an excellent warning sign.

Seven. Has the fish you wish to purchase been in the store for at least a week? Most problems occur either immediately on arrival or in the subsequent few days. If a new arrival especially appeals to you, and you are worried that the store may sell it before you return, then ask to leave a small deposit ,as a sign of good faith. All good store owners will be happy to do this for a regular customer, and if it should get ill , or needs further treatment, you can either wait, get your money refunded, or apply it to another purchase. In every case you will avoid almost certain problems.

Eight. Is your aquarium in perfect condition, and are the fish you wish to buy, unlikely to overload the carrying capacity of your tank. Each tank can only sustain so many fish, and if in your enthusiasm you wish to capacity beyond what the tank and it’s support system can safely allow, then catastrophe is guaranteed. The old rule of about 1 inch of fish body, per gallon of water in the tank is about right, at least in fresh water, yet I constantly see this been exceeded. Remember that in nature the fish have hundreds of times this “living space” and a constant natural replacement and/or natural eco- system and filtration to back it up.

Nine. Not always possible, but highly recommended. Try and have a small quarantine tank ( 10-25 gal) which you keep with some form of active biological filtration, etc, and keep the new arrival in this tank for 3-4 days after purchase. Should the worst occur, you can treat easily and effectively, without the trauma of pulling down or destroying your main aquarium, in an attempt to catch all the inhabitants, or having to treat in the main aquarium, which at the least will use far more medication. Ensure that in the “hospital” tank, there is some stones or other hiding places, as otherwise the fish may easily become stressed due to fright. Normally I would not medicate, only if something appears that requires it, as all medications have some stress factor in themselves, but on occasion cannot be avoided.

Finally, read up on the fish you are keeping and wish to keep. Many fish have some special requirement in their diets, yet to many hobbyists, buy a packet of standard food, and feed that religiously every day, so that the essential missing factor in time assumes a critical importance and the fish weakens. By finding out through reading good literature you will become aware of what the needs of your fish are, and sometimes this will apply to water chemistry, temperature etc as well. Information is readily available in this day and age, so use it, and have happier and healthier fish.

Shawn Prescott

AND

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