M Setting Up THE NEW AQUARIUM    *The best way is the right way*... Page 2  By Andre Page1 Page3

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WE HAVE FOUND THAT A LOT OF MONEY CAN BE SAVED BY ORDERING YOUR SUPPLIES ON THE INTERNET Our members are working with the industry leaders in online aquarium supplies retailing and they are providing our viewers and members with outstanding selection, coupled with world-class customer service. Now you need equipment . You must have a thermometer, a set of nets,(one large net and a small net with fine mesh) a soft sponge to clean the algae off of the insides of the aquarium, a water testing kit,   ( most freshwater fish need alkaline water, however there are a few which need acid water).     You also need to take the chlorine and the chloramine out of the water when you start and every time you add or change water. Purchase a bottle  of declorinater. Click HERE M THE FISH STORE Recommended Products Click HERE Freshwater and Saltwater Super Discounts

		New Tank Syndrome
		A product I recommend is BIOZYME by AQUARIUM Products........ pH Levels pH is the measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. pH levels should be monitored weekly and adjusted to suit the fish. Most tropical fish can live happily in a range of pH values — from 6.8 to 7.8. It is critical however, to maintain a stable pH level in your tank. There are kits available to test the pH level. Products are available to bring the pH up or down as needed. Home test kits with pH adjusters are also available. Ammonia Ammonia poisoning, the leading cause of fish loss, is most likely to occur at toxic levels in a newly established tank where the process of biological filtration has not been established, in an old aquarium where the pH has become alkaline, or in an over-crowded tank. Ammonia, which destroys the mucus membranes of fish, is secreted by fish directly through the gills as a waste product, and by the bacterial breakdown of fish waste, uneaten food and plant by-products. This causes the ammonia levels in the tank to reach toxic levels, known as ammonia poisoning. Adequate and proper filtration, and regular water testing, help keep toxic ammonia levels from occurring. Products are also available to help keep ammonia levels in check. Ammonia can be removed by using a liquid ammonia remover that is placed directly in the water, or ammonia chips, which are put into your canister or power filter. Water Hardness Water hardness refers to the amount of calcium and magnesium salts present in the water. Too much hard water causes a white crust to form on parts of the aquarium. Hard water makes it difficult to adjust the pH. Products are available to help soften the water. Nitrites and Nitrates Nitrites are converted by beneficial bacteria into nitrates. High levels of nitrites indicate that the breakdown of organic materials isn't complete and that the aquarium does not have adequate biological filtration. Nitrites are less toxic than ammonia, but can still kill fish if the levels are too high. Nitrates, on the other hand, are generally harmless to freshwater fish and are actually used by plants and algae as food. Test kits are available that test the levels of both nitrites and nitrates. Buffering Capacity (Alkalinity) Sudden changes in pH are very stressful to fish. Water without the proper level of buffering capacity (alkalinity) is very susceptible to changes in pH. Properly buffered water has a 120 to 240 parts per million (ppm) total alkalinity reading. You can buy products that will increase the buffering capacity of your aquarium water. Salinity Although salt is associated with marine aquariums, freshwater aquariums can benefit from small doses, as well. A lack of sodium (salt) in the water will break down the slime coat of fish. One tablespoon per five gallons will provide enough salt for most fish. Mollies, Swordtails, Tetras, Fancy Guppies, and Goldfish prefer a little more. Cichlids, Knifefish, and Ghosts prefer less. Only use salt that is recommended for aquariums. Never use regular table salt which may contain iodine. Temperature Freshwater tropical fish must have a stable water temperature within the range of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Fluctuating water temperature causes stress on the fish. It is always a good idea to buy a good quality aquarium heater and a floating thermometer to help you regulate your water temperature. In most homes you need to maintain the minimum temperature. Don't forget your fish when you leave your home for extended periods of time. Check the operation of your aquarium heater in winter and remember if you turn off your air conditioning in summer, the temperature in your aquarium may get too high. M M Join... Andre's Aquarium Club today! Ask all your aquarium related questions. Setting up an Aquarium? Aquarium Plants? Sick Fish? Invertebrate Problem? Water Problems? Breeding? Propagating ? CLICK HERE		I am repeating these instructions because they are very important........ You must put the gravel in a bucket or pail and rinse it with a hose (force the water through the gravel).  Rinse until the water becomes clear...... After the gravel is clean, put it into the aquarium.... Fill the aquarium with tippet warm water, let it set for about twenty minutes, then adjust the heater to 75 degrees Fahr.(24C) The aquarium should stand empty of quality fish for about one week. To speed things up a little, add a few small hardy fish to the tank. (guppies or platies) even goldfish are sometimes used.  This is done to begin the  The Nitrogen Cycle . The most important thing you should know.   Commercial bacterial products are also available that can be used in conjunction with adding fish.   Typical Break in cycle. The most important thing to remember about water chemistry is to provide a constant environment for your fish. Fish are harmed more by rapid fluctuations in pH, temperature, etc. than by any other hazard. Most fishkeepers rely on water from the faucet when setting up an aquarium or when doing a partial water change. City water departments add many chemicals such as chlorine and chloramine to tap water to kill bacteria (good and bad bacteria). Because these chemicals are deadly to fish, never keep fish in untreated tap water! Fill the aquarium with water, treat it, and then add fish once the water is stabilized. After doing a partial water change, the water in the aquarium will again need to be treated to insure that the chlorine or chloromines have been neutralized. Chlorine and Chloramine Chlorine is found in most tap water and must be neutralized with a water treatment that removes chlorine. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine and ammonia. It is a stronger disinfectant than chlorine alone and is used in areas where this extra disinfection is needed. You can call your local water department to find out if chlorine and chloramine is in the water, or you can buy a Chloramine/Chlorine test kit. These chemicals must be neutralized with a water treatment that removes chlorine and chloramine. Water with chlorine and chloramine in it must be treated with a product that will neutralize both chemicals. Prevent the loss of your fish by being prepared. You Should have a medicine chest ready for emergences (if you wait to get the remedy after the fish shows signs of a disease it could be to late), Click HERE M The Aquarium Doctor The Aquarium Doctor is a Member of Andre's Aquarium Club. If you have any aquarium related questions and you are a member, check out the Aquarium Doctor. The Aquarium Doctor Slime Coat Protection When fish are moved from aquarium to aquarium, or they are in a weakened condition from transporting, their stress is increased and their protective slime coating may be lost. A slime coat product should be used in conjunction with chlorine/chloramine removers to help reduce stress and provide a protective slime coat on the fish that is sometimes lost. Click HERE

M You may also be wondering just how many fish you can successfully keep in your aquarium. While many variables affect that answer, a general rule is to stock no more than ½ an inch (do not count the tail) of fully grown fish per gallon of water in your aquarium. For example, if you have a 30-gallon aquarium, ideally stock no more than 15 total inches of fully grown fish. Always remember to consider your desired fishes' maximum size when full grown when calculating this amount. N WHICH FISH TO CHOOSE To Continue this page on setting up

You must decide if  you want plastic plants or real plants, or a combination. Aquarium Plants and Fish Aquarium Plants Information Fresh Water Aquarium Plants The satisfaction of having  aquatic plants flourish and   reproduce is very gratifying. In my opinion, the live aquatic  plant is a hobby within a hobby.  It requires a person to create a natural ecosystem. Click HERE CONTINUE to next page... MM Now you must decide, WHICH FISH TO CHOOSE To Continue this page on setting up the Aquarium....Page 3c   Continued 1 | 2 | 3 Next

Check our great Aquarium supply store, recommended products by our members, (Eliminate algae growth with BI-AQUACULTURE) order it today!! THE FISH STORE Recommended Products Click HERE     M Looked everywhere for an answer? The The AquariumVet IS the ANSWER! M for Non-members M Now   Only $3.99 using PayPal M Use PayPAL If you have a question about your fish or aquarium, you may send $3.99 using PayPal and you will be contacted by email to receive an answer. The AquariumVet M The AquariumVet M With sick fish or any aquarium problems...? M Members may click here.. Please use your password. This is a free service for members. M M Ask any Aquarium related question Receive individual help with your Aquatic World..... Speed and accuracy are vital in taking action to remedy a problem. M The AquariumVet M 0073625 Total Visitors Andre's Aquarium Club       If you are looking for aquarium help, you have found it! 7863489 Since May 1997 M JOIN TODAY M ANDRE'S AQUARIUM CLUB Visit My Guestbook Please Sign the Guestbook before you leaveM M Members  may ask all their aquarium related questions.... and receive individual help. MCONTINUEM mAndre's Aquarium Pages!m CLICK HERE m HOME THE SEA EMAIL SEARCH