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When you first begin keeping marine aquariums, the sheer variety
of the fish available can be overwhelming. Many of them are beautiful,
unusual-looking creatures with fascinating behavior. But not all fish are
suitable for the less experienced hobbyist in fact, many of them pose
difficulties even for adept fishkeepers. And some fish particularly those
those with specialized feeding requirements shouldn't really be kept in a
home aquarium at all.
I can recommend a good
protein skimmer.
The protein skimmer I am speaking of is a Seaclone
made by Aquarium Systems, it is a Venturi and is for tanks up to 90 gallons.
I just recently bought a seaclone
skimmer by Aquarium systems and I love it. It is basically like a tornado
in a tube and it whips up a hefty froth of protein on a daily basis so I
know it is performing well. It uses something called a venturi valve to create
this tornado effect. I would advise you to check it out, I think it is neat.
Good luck for your search for the right skimmer.
"The Aquarium
Doctor"
Hints to remember
Many lay great stress on allowing the helpful micro-organisms to get a
grip first; a process that can take two or 12 weeks, and which automatically
reduces the level of the hostile nitrates, and stabilizes the pH.
Many insist that algae be grown first, either in the tank itself, or
preferably in a separate external filter which is equipped with its own lighting
that can stay on constantly; certainly the fish health and appetites are
improved with water that has come from algae-saturated waters. Of course,
the algae must be maintained and not allowed to start decomposing!
Patience is essential, even a pH reading cannot be taken, after a change,
for some 24 hours; the same applies to specific gravity alterations and readings.
The standard rule is to soak everything in salt, first, before use including
the filters and their carbon, etc. If you are wiping anything then dip your
clean cloth in salt water first, or at least have damp salt on it.
Sudden changes don't help at all. To go from a specific gravity of 1.025
to 1.000 abruptly, eg. even for washing something, can be lethal to beneficial
nitrates. Sudden shock like putting on the tank lights can harm, so always
put the room lights on first. Metals must be entirely absent - not in the
rocks, lamp clips, wires, etc - plastic coatings being essential.
To get the biggest surface feasible on your aquarium has always been wise
advice; with marines the rate of filtration is perhaps even more important
- you may need real heavy waves of movement, as in natural life, surging
and eddying with evident force.
Temperatures are similar to those for their freshwater cousins, around
75 degrees F with room to fluctuate 8 degrees F either way. Some fish like
the low ranges, some the high; so many factors are involved such as seasons,
age of fish, their health, etc. When in doubt, do as you might for freshwater
tropical fish.
Urine decomposition is aggravated because the lowered oxygen content of
the sea water induces a faster intake rate by the fish, with consequent increased
urine. If the fish start to breathe faster then you'd better start checking;
a part change of water would probably help.
There is no virtue in putting the air pump where it sucks in tobacco or
kitchen smells; better to place it outdoors on the window ledge and to run
in an extra length of plastic air line on the theory that cold is better
withstood than tobacco smoke - something an ocean fish has never met before.
For marines it is almost essential to have a separate quarantine tank
- this is just one of the facts of life - also a store of ready matured sea
water. And, to re-emphasize, that extra filter; fitted with that extra layer
of filter material or chemical, is far more important than having that extra
fish. In the end, you and the fish will be much happier.
We Welcome New
Members!!
Welcome to Andre's Aquarium Club Pages. Some viewers
have asked why we ensue the recruiting of members so diligently. The answer
is quite simple, it requires thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours to
put and keep the Aquarium pages on the Internet.
When most of us started keeping aquariums,
we went into the hobby blind. We read outdated books and listened to the
self-serving advice from our local fish shops. Only after the death of many
aquatic animals and the purchase of expensive, useless equipment did we
accumulate the knowledge and skills necessary to successfully keep these
creatures. Looking back on those years of “trial and error” aquarium
keeping, we've often wondered why someone never guided people through the
setup and maintenance of the aquarium. Well, finally someone
is.
Sure, you will find many other aquarium
related web sites on the Internet, thousands of great sites, but none with
as much information as Andre's Aquarium Pages. We cover practically every
subject relating to the aquarium in a way that any novice or expert can
understand. We have hundreds of members not only asking questions,
but also supplying answers. We have spent an enormous amount of time developing
this web site along with the program that lies within and are truly convinced
that it can be one of the best things that has ever happened to the marine
hobbyist as they pursue the aquatic world of their dreams. We believe that
people that work hard and make the right decisions in life can achieve anything
they want.
Cyclone BAK-PAKsm 2 Bio-Filter
The Cyclone BAK-PAKsm 2 Bio-Filter
is the second generation external, hang on the back, combination Protein
Skimmer and Biological Filtration unit from CPR. The Bak-Paksm 2, like the
original, is designed for tank sizes up to 60 gallons, but multiple units
may be used for larger aquariums. Water first enters the Protein Skimmer
column from the aquarium. It then flows through the biological chamber filled
with Bio-Baletm filtration media before returning to the aquarium.
The Protein Skimmer is driven by
a Rio 600 with the “Rejuvenation System” modification which mixes
air and water before it is drawn through the impeller and broken up into
tiny bubbles. Bubble dwell time is increased by the counter-current flow
in the skimmer column. The quality of the foam collected can be controlled
by raising and lowering the collection cup
To set up the Bak-Paksm 2, hang
the unit behind the aquarium and plug in— that’s it. New improved
design incorporates an easy to clean intake tube and an enclosed, directional
outflow to reduce salt splash and micro-bubbles entering into tank. The new
design also uses a smoke colored break-resistant collection cup.
Body Size: 7.5" wide, 3" deep,
17.5" height
P.S. Andre also recommends
The Cyclone BAK-PAK 2 Protein Skimmer by CPR Aquatics is the second generation
external, hang on the back, combination Protein Skimmer and Biological Filtration
unit from CPR. Cyclone BAK-PAK 2 Protein Skimmer
Andre's Choice,
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The
Aquarium Doctor
 
Dedicated to improving aquatic
health.
Producing safe and
effective treatments for both fresh and
saltwater applications.
Buying a better fish.
Now to the more general topic of how to avoid “importing” disaster
to your aquarium. Many hobbyists I hear from seem to have little faith in
the advice of their dealer. This begs the question why if this be so, do
they continue to buy from them. Sometimes geography will be the reason, but
certainly this cannot always the answer.
Impetuosity is without doubt a major reason, as is the fact that we expect
instant perfection with little input on our side.
The first thing to observe when selecting a dealer, is to find out how
long they have been in business. This may be a little unfair to new entrants
to the industry, but usually a store that has survived the first 3 years
or more will make it, whilst failures, as in most kinds of business, will
take place within the first 1-2 years. It would appear self evident, that
those that make it, are usually more knowledgeable than those that do not.
Also in many cases more ethical.
Secondly, does the store or/and its employees appear to have a good background
in the science of fish keeping, or do you get the impression that they are
trying to sell you some equipment or fish just to make a sale,.
Thirdly, do they take the time and trouble, to find out what kind of equipment
you already use, and which species of fish you currently have in your set-up.
This is important, because I find often, that hobbyists, have purchased
incompatible fish, which then cause stress to each other, and subsequent
disease outbreaks.
Fourthly, Does the store have some really magnificent show tanks, not
only a reef tank, but also a planted fresh water aquarium, and in fact at
least on example of how an aquarium should be , of the type YOU are interested
in. It is notable to me, that in Japan, and many parts of Europe many stores
appear to have as many “demonstration” not for sale tanks as they
do, tanks from which they do sell. This does two important things for you
the buyer. It enables you to have an idea of just how beautiful an aquarium
can be, when maintained properly. It shows you that the store must know what
they are talking about in how to keep such a beautiful show tank.
Fifthly, Are the tanks in the store clean, the water sparkling clear,
and is there, as there should be a TOTAL lack of any dead or sick fish in
the tanks. NEVER buy from a store where such evident examples of problems
can be seen. Every store will have some sick fish, but the good stores, will
firstly quarantine all new arrivals and treat them for a few days, and certainly
will pay close attention to all and any signs of problems and remove them
for treatment. Sometimes I have seen good stores that be treating a tank,
and will have a paper or other screen over a tank during this period, with
a sign saying “not for sale” or suchlike. This store is taking
it’s responsibilities seriously and is likely a serious store.
Sixthly Is the fish or fishes you intend to buy eating properly. Have
you seen them rush greedily for some food. Fish that are sick, or shortly
to become so, very typically are sluggish or indifferent to feeding, and
this is often an excellent warning sign.
Seven. Has the fish you wish to purchase been in the store for at least
a week? Most problems occur either immediately on arrival or in the subsequent
few days. If a new arrival especially appeals to you, and you are worried
that the store may sell it before you return, then ask to leave a small deposit
,as a sign of good faith. All good store owners will be happy to do this
for a regular customer, and if it should get ill , or needs further treatment,
you can either wait, get your money refunded, or apply it to another purchase.
In every case you will avoid almost certain problems.
Eight. Is your aquarium in perfect condition, and are the fish you wish
to buy, unlikely to overload the carrying capacity of your tank. Each tank
can only sustain so many fish, and if in your enthusiasm you wish to capacity
beyond what the tank and it’s support system can safely allow, then
catastrophe is guaranteed. The old rule of about 1 inch of fish body, per
gallon of water in the tank is about right, at least in fresh water, yet
I constantly see this been exceeded. Remember that in nature the fish have
hundreds of times this “living space” and a constant natural
replacement and/or natural eco- system and filtration to back it up.
Nine. Not always possible, but highly recommended. Try and have a small
quarantine tank ( 10-25 gal) which you keep with some form of active biological
filtration, etc, and keep the new arrival in this tank for 3-4 days after
purchase. Should the worst occur, you can treat easily and effectively, without
the trauma of pulling down or destroying your main aquarium, in an attempt
to catch all the inhabitants, or having to treat in the main aquarium, which
at the least will use far more medication. Ensure that in the
“hospital” tank, there is some stones or other hiding places, as
otherwise the fish may easily become stressed due to fright. Normally I would
not medicate, only if something appears that requires it, as all medications
have some stress factor in themselves, but on occasion cannot be avoided.
Finally, read up on the fish you are keeping and wish to keep. Many fish
have some special requirement in their diets, yet to many hobbyists, buy
a packet of standard food, and feed that religiously every day, so that the
essential missing factor in time assumes a critical importance and the fish
weakens. By finding out through reading good literature you will become aware
of what the needs of your fish are, and sometimes this will apply to water
chemistry, temperature etc as well. Information is readily available in this
day and age, so use it, and have happier and healthier fish.
Shawn Prescott
The novice saltwater hobbyist is advised to weigh
the risks of the mixed collection against the obvious benefits and to make
plans accordingly. Freshwater dips and quarantine tanks can reduce the chances
of newly acquired specimens introducing disease to an established aquarium.
Low fish population density (few fish in a large tank as in the currently
popular "reef" type aquariums) may reduce epidemic outbreaks and allow fish
to deal with parasites in their natural manner.
Saltwater
Aquarium Fish
Compatibility
You may also be wondering just how many fish
you can successfully keep in your aquarium. While many variables affect that
answer, a general rule is to stock no more than 1/2 inch (do not count the
tail) of fully grown fish per gallon of water in your aquarium. For
example, if you have a 30-gallon aquarium, ideally stock no more than 15
total inches of fully grown fish.
Always remember to consider your desired fishes'
maximum size when full grown when calculating this amount.
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Reef tank
Dale
Barger, member.
M
