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The Worlds Largest and most Popular Hobby, and growing every day.             Betta Species  The Amazing Betta,              or Siamese Fighting Fish Scientific Name: Betta Splendens Other Names: Betta Family: Belontiidae Origin: Cambodia, Thailand Adult Size: 3 inches (7 cm) Social: Males cannot be kept together Lifespan: 2-3 years Tank Level: Top dweller Minimum Tank Size: 3 gallon Diet: Live foods preferable, will eat flakes and frozen foods Breeding: Egglayer - bubblenest Care: Easy to Intermediate pH: 6.8 - 7.4 Hardenss: up to 20 dGH Temperature: 75-86 F (24-30 C) Description: The brilliant coloration, and long flowing fins of the Betta make it one of the most well known of aquarium fish. Colors range from red to blue to white. Females are not as highly colored, and have much shorter fins. A well conditioned breeding female will often display horizontal stripes. Habitat/Care: Bettas are one of the most recognized, most colorful, and often most controversial fish in the freshwater hobby. Debates range on about the appropriateness of keeping them in small bowls. To fully understand their needs it is important to become familiar with their native habitat. Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand (formerly called Siam, hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even slow moving streams.Although many fish keepers are aware that Bettas come from shallow waters, a key factor that is often overlooked is the water temperature. These countries are tropical, which means the water temperature is quite warm - often reaching into the 80's. Bettas thrive on heat, and will become increasingly listless when the water temperature falls below 75 degrees F. Water temperature is perhaps the biggest argument against keeping a betta in a tiny bowl (which cannot readily be heat controlled).Even though Bettas do well in waters low in dissolved oxygen, that does not mean they require less oxygen than other fish. Bettas have a special respiratory organ that allows them to breath air directly from the surface. In fact they inherently must do so. In experiments where the labyrinth organ was removed, the fish died from suffocation even though the water was saturated with oxygen. For this reason, Bettas must have access to the water surface to breath air directly from the atmosphere.Optimally the water for keeping healthy Bettas should be soft, warm, with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Water movement should be kept to a minimum, which means that power filters and powerheads are not suitable. Bettas may be kept in a community tank as long as the water conditions are met, and if no aggressive or fin-nipping fish are present. However, only one male may be kept in each aquarium, unless they are separated by a barrier.The use of plastic boxes that hang inside the aquarium are a suitable option for keeping more than one betta in a tank, or for keeping them in a tank with fish that might nip their fins. Females will generally not fight with each other, and may be kept in the same tank .NOTE: Selling a betta in a vase with a Peace Lily has become in vogue. However, a flower vase is not a suitable environment for the betta. For more information check the additional information link below. Diet: In nature Bettas subsist almost exclusively on insects and insect larvae. They are built with an upturned mouth that is well suited to snatching any hapless insect that might fall into the water. Internally their digestive system is geared for meat, having a much shorter alimentary track than vegetarian fish. For this reason, live foods are the ideal diet for the betta, however they will adapt to eating flake foods and frozen and freeze dried foods.Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart, are all excellent options that may be found frozen or freeze dried. If flake food is fed, it should be supplemented with frozen and freeze-dried foods, and if possible live foods. Breeding: Bettas have a fairly short lifespan, and are most successful as breeders when they under a year old (bettas in pet shops are usually at least six months old). They breed in bubblenests and do not require a large tank or special equipment.Most breeders find that a bare bottomed tank of roughly ten gallons works well, although smaller tanks are also suitable.Ideally the fish should be conditioned prior to breeding, by feeding them a diet of live foods. The water should be at a pH of about 7.0, and temperature around 80 or slightly above.The male will blow an elaborate bubble nest when he is ready to spawn. The female should be provided with a hiding place, as males may become aggressive during courtship. Even with a hiding place, it is common for the female to lose a few scales or have their fins frayed during spawning.When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.The male will continue to tend the bubblenest, spitting eggs that fall out back into the nest. In one to two days the eggs will hatch, and the fry will be visible hanging in the bubblenest with their tails pointing downward. They will feed off their yolk sack for another thirty six hours, during which time the male will continue to pick up any fry that fall out of the nest. The male should be removed within two days after the fry hatch, as they may eat the young once they are free swimming. The fry should be fed a couple of feedings daily of baby brine shrimp or very fine baby food. Tetra makes a dry mixture specifically for egglaying fish, and many pet shops carry frozen baby brine shrimp. Take care not to overfeed, as the uneaten food will foul the water and can quickly prove lethal to the fry. Female Thanks to Shirlie Sharpe, The Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta Splendens) is a beautiful and hardy fish which suffers from a popular misunderstanding, even among many aquarium hobbyists: they are thought to be incredibly aggressive and must be kept isolated. This is NOT true! In general, females are absolutely peaceful, and males are only aggressive towards other males of the same species (they often fight to death). Because of this, and the fact that Bettas can breath directly from the air, they are kept in those tiny pots in pet shops. But just because they survive in those pots doesn't mean they enjoy it. Like any other fish, Bettas will be much happier if they live in a tank which at least allows them to swim around a little. They make excellent fish for peaceful community tanks as long as you keep one male and any number of females. The tank should have hiding places for the females to take a break from the male's constant harassment. by Marcos Avila Siamese fighting fish don't always fight to the death. If one of the males retreates usually the other doesn't follow. They rarely die. And if they do it is because their injuries did not heal. After a while you can't even tell they fought. The most beautiful and one of the most popular Tropical Aquarium Fish is the Betta. The betta comes from  the Malayan peninsula and Thailand   Temperature 70-86 degrees F  ( The higher temp. ( 80 to 85 degrees F. ) only during breeding). This beautiful fish deserves to live in more than a  small glass. If they are in large aquariums (at least 10 gallons) they are very happy. Most bettas in captivity will survive an average of 2 years. YES, they will jump out of uncovered bowls or tanks. CLICK HERE The betta does not require any special water hardness, but does prefer a slight acid reading...... The preferable pH is between 6.8 and 7.4. The water can be moderately hard. You should watch out for high nitrite/nitrate and ammonia levels, as these elements can damage your bettas beautiful fins. Siamese fighting fish are a species of Anabantoidei. Which are often called anabantoids. All anabantoids are "airbreathing", and are equipped with an organ called a labyrinth which allows them to extract oxygen from the air. Thus allowing them to live in water that contains a very low amount of dissolved oxygen. The betta is a bubble nest builder, the male builds the nest and cares for the young. (It is best to remove the female immediately after the spawning and the male in about four days.)The male will kill the female in order to protect the young. The male must be there to tend the young when they are hatched or they will drown. He keeps them in the bubbles until their gills begin to function. See the Illustration below The name FIGHTING FISH was given to them because the males will sometimes fight each other to the death. Place a mirror on the side of the tank or bowl, placed so that the betta can see his reflection, he will flare as to empress the rival and display his beautiful fins. As soon as the young begin to show any aggression they must be separated. The females can be kept together with no problem. The male is the most beautiful of all Tropical Fish in most hobbyist minds. These fish can be in a species tank with many cells or one may be kept in a community tank. Be careful not to have barbs or other nippers in the Aquarium. Also fish that will eat the brine shrimp before the slow moving Betta can get them should be avoided. The Betta is a hardy friendly fish, (except to other male Bettas) and comes in many brilliant colors. A good beginners fish....... Feeding the Betta is very simple, I recommend the Special blend by Andre. Do not feed more than the fish can consume in five minutes. The Betta also enjoys live brine shrimp. I would recommend having these foods available when you purchase a new fish, very often they will not eat regular food right away. If live brine is not available they will enjoy thawed frozen brine shrimp and frozen or freeze dried blood worms. Their diet in the wild consists mainly of larvae, especially mosquito larvae. In aquariums, bettas enjoy freeze dried foods, frozen foods, special "Betta Pellets" and flakes. Their temperature needs are 70-86 F. The preferable pH is between 6.8 and 7.4. The water can be moderately hard. You should watch out for high nitrite/nitrate and ammonia levels, as these elements can damage your bettas beautiful fins. I have found that the best way of healing damaged fins is with a dried banana leaf. You can find banana leaves at most oriental food stores. You place the dried banana leaf in the jar with the injured betta. Then wait about a week. Your betta's tattered fin should look quite good. If the fin wasn't damaged too badly it should look like it was never injured. You should use a commercial antibiotic if it is bacterial fin damage. You can tell it is bacterial if you betta's fins appear to be rotting away without any apparent reason. Andre's Betta Food is fantastic, your Betta will love it and it has everything he needs for a perfect daily diet....The price for a five ounce container is only $28.99,  this is a great  value.  If you live in USA shipping is free. If you live out of the USA, add $9.50 for shipping and handling.  Send a check or a money order to  William Richmond, 290 Scottsdale Rd, Pleasant Hill ,Ca. 94523. Mail Order Form Or you may use PayPal security to use your credit card. For Betta Food Shipping You may use PayPal security to use your credit card for not in USA shipping and handling Everything you will ever want to know about the Aquarium is available to you on Andre's Aquarium Pages. Female Male Male Breeding the Betta is very easy.               (80 to 85 degrees F.  only during breeding). 1.......The spawning sequence of the Betta 2......The male constructs a bubble nest to receive the eggs 3.... The male entices the female beneath the bubblenest.( The female is beaten and battered first, this is the way in nature for these fish.) 4... The spawning embrace occurs with the fish intertwined beneath the bubblenest. ......The male squeezes  the female until she releases the eggs. .....As the eggs float to the bottom the male fertilizes them. 5......The male then retrieves as many eggs as he can and places them in the bubblenest. Remove the female as soon as possible after  all the eggs are all extracted . 6.....The young fry hatch in about 2 days. 7.... Sometimes a light in one corner of the tank will help concentrate both food and fry in one place. 8......The young fry need infusoria as a first food, but they will soon  graduate to baby brine shrimp. Frozen baby brine shrimp will work just fine. Remove the female as soon as possible after all the eggs are all extracted and the male as soon as the young are free swimming. The young fish should be separated as soon as possible to small floating jars after they reach the size of about one halve inch. Once you can determine the sex you can put the females together, but the males must always be separated. Aqua Babys? Fish in a vase? There are many products similar to the one shown above. It consists of a vase or small container (even sometimes a large one) with a male Betta Splenden inside and a plants of some kind (most often a Peace Lily) on top. The worst part about these setups is that the persons selling them most often then not, tell the buyer that the betta does NOT need to be fed and can live off the roots. To add insult to injury, they also tell you that the water does not need to be changed. They claim that this is a mini ecosystem where the plant lives off the excrement of the betta and the betta lives off the roots of the plants. This is entirely not true. Here are a few important facts : Today's aquarium hobby, is a large, lucrative business. As with anything, there are those who are in it purely for profit, with little regard for animal rights. These people range from the collectors who still use cyanide to catch fish, even though it shortens the fish's life and ruins the reef, to the retailers who make ridicules claims and will sell anything to anyone, no questions asked. Andre's Aquarium Club Pages are dedicated to the advancement and dissemination of information relating to all aspects of the biology of aquatic life. Hello. I am a member of Andre's Aquarium Club. The following is a questionnaire that will help me tremendously on my project. My project is about Bettas and their behavior. The purpose of my project is to find out whether or not a male Betta (splendens) is selectively aggressive to only another male Betta or if a Betta is aggressive to anything and everything it sees. I used another male betta, a female betta, male guppy, a mirror and a wooden stick to test a control male betta’s reactions and behaviors. I know that when a male betta is aggressive, their color is darken, their fins flare out, their gill blow out and they actively circle around in their tank. So I concluded with my project that male Bettas ARE selectively aggressive to their opponent. Unfortunately, I cannot make a general statement about them based on only one experiment. Therefore, your response to my e-mail will significantly support/not support my project. Please spend some time to reply. This questionnaire can be an opinion based on your experience with Bettas. It’s not necessary to answer all questions. BETTA QUESTIONNAIRE 1.) How long have you worked with Bettas? 2.) Are you a Betta breeder? If so, what do you look for in a Betta (ex: color, behavior, fin shape, body shape, etc…). Why? 3.) Do you think their aggressive behavior is due to genetics? Please explain (why you think so if you can). 4.) Are some male Bettas more aggressive than others? If so, due to what factor? 5.) Do you think certain Betta’s physical features effect the aggression of the opponent? (ex: would larger fins that are flared intimate the opponent? If so, why do you think so?) 6.) What do you think causes the Bettas to be aggressive? (ex: for territorial reasons, mating rituals, etc…). 7.) Do you think that male bettas are selectively aggressive or randomly aggressive? –Are they pugnacious towards everything and anything? 8.) Do you find the female to be aggressive too? 9.) Do you think that if male Bettas is aggressive to female because the male may mistaken the female for a short-finned male? 10.) Is it best to keep the female separated like the male even though it’s not necessary? 11.) Do you think that there’s something that would make a male betta more aggressive than normal? 12.) Do you feel that Bettas are more aggressive in natural environment/habitant or in captive? 13.) Whether or not a Betta is kept isolated from another male Betta, do you think that would effect the level of its aggression? 14.) Does the length of time that you allow them to fight/confront each other effect its aggression levels? 15.) Do you think the size or color of the opponent (of either a Betta or another species) effect the aggression of the Betta? 16.) Do you know if Bettas has always been so aggressive: 17.) Do you know the reason why Bettas show aggression by flaring out their gills, fanning out their fins, swimming around violently, swinging their tails and changing colors? Is it only to intimidate their opponent? 18.) Are younger Bettas less aggressive? ANSWER...... I have kept Betta Splendens for many years. I have a wide variety of interests in tropical fish and have never focused my attentions wholey on Betta Splendens. Even though I do not consider myself a Betta breeder, I do feel I have a level of fish knowledge that can answer a majority of your questions. Yes, some male bettas are more aggressive than others. There are many species of bettas, and some are not aggressive between males. The species I am speaking of are Betta Smaragdina and Betta Pugnax. Betta Smaragdina is a much shorter fin variety and has adequate color. Betta Smaragdina and Betta Spendens have been mated before, but their fry failed to produce viable fry. This genetic difference leads one to believe that body shape is a determining factor in choosing a mate. As for your question does genetics have anything to do with their aggressive behavior, Yes it has everything to do with it. If you are a supporter of the survival of the fittest theory, you will see bettas are a great example of this. I believe Betta Splendens is very selective in their spawning behavior. Shape is more of a determing factor than color. However, I feel color may be an immediate attractant to male bettas. Once a male betta Splendens finds a mate it must be strong enough and have those traits that attract the male betta. Male bettas Finnage and gill display are perhaps the one factor that benefits a male fish more than any other genetic feature. Some male bettas are more aggressive than others. Size is also very important. The Finnage and gill display help enhance the illusion of greater size. often one male betta will back down from a fight solely on the display given by another betta. If one male flees, the other will most likely pursue it and if that fish has no where to retreat to he will most likely be killed. If the bettas are of similar size they will often engage in battle. The loser usually continues losing and is less likely to find an available mate due to the stress of previous battles weakening him physically and appearance wise. Bettas are aggressive for both territorial and spawning rite reasons. A strong enough male may be able to defend a large territory and win rites to spawn with more than one female. Male bettas are selectively aggressive toward other bettas, however they are often the target of aggression from other species of fish like fast swimming tetras and barbs. Female bettas, however are not aggressive to one another like the males. It is ironic, because they often become targets of tetras as well. Perhaps the arrogant display is a call to battle to other species of fish as well and the finnage on a female is also a threat to a tetra. It is not necessary to keep the females separated. Male bettas are actually more aggressive in their wild habitat. Todays highly cultivated species are much less combative than the wild strains. This may be due to the increased completion in a natural ecosystem. It appears that the aquarium raised bettas are just as aggressive, but we must remember their environment is much smaller, thus increasing the likely hood of combative encounters. A male that has won spawning rite battles is often more likely to continue to be aggressive, and one that has lost often will become increasingly submissive. It is all about getting the best genetic traits passed down to their fry, thus increasing the chances for survival in a wild environment or tank setting. A male that has been isolated for a long time from other males will be just as aggressive as one that has encountered other males. The instinct to battle for spawning rites is genetically programmed in to the fish. Not all betta species are as aggressive, so it leads me to believe the aggression level may have increased as the Betta Splendens evolved into its current form. Young Bettas are by far not as aggressive and often must be submissive in early life to insure survival to adulthood. The best thing for a breeder to do is to isolate a small male and grow him to size before introducing him to a like size female. In conclusion, I would say the Finnage and gill display is the single most important genetic trait to insure the survival of a male betta and most importantly the rite to pass those genes to the next generation of Betta Splendens. There are projects in the works to spawn longer fin varieties of Betta Smaragdina in hopes to introduce a less aggressive species of betta to the Aquarium hobby. As aquarists continue to modify the gene pool of Betta Splendens it is hard to tell whether their behavior can be modified as well. "The Aquarium Doctor"  No one is authorized to receive answers without the membership passwords.       Join today GREAT LINKS TO CHECK OUT Click here for another Special Site on Breeding More Information on the Bettas Splenden CLICK HERE The Betta Column CLICK HERE aquaticbio's Bookmarks Betta Diseases!! Many of you have emailed me over the years with many questions about sick bettas. So I decided I would put together the most comprehensive listing of betta diseases and ailments, how to diagnose a sick betta, treat it, and hopefully save it. I also added a page on how to sanitize/sterilize jars and tanks that contained sick contagious bettas. If you have a sick betta, please read this page thoroughly. If you don’t have a sick betta, read it too, because you will get a sick betta sooner or later (probably sooner :)) ). Thank you for caring for your sick betta with love and compassion. CLICK HERE

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Do you already know of the feisty lively personalities little ball of fire from South East Asia, more specifically from the regions casually referred to as Siam? If not then "hang on" to your seats this will be one heck of a ride.

AGE OF AQUARIUMS

The Siamese Fighting Fish (Betta Splendens) is a beautiful and hardy fish which suffers from a popular misunderstanding, even among many aquarium hobbyists: they are thought to be incredibly aggressive and must be kept isolated. This is NOT true! In general, females are absolutely peaceful, and males are only aggressive towards other males of the same species (they often fight to death). Because of this, and the fact that Bettas can breath directly from the air, they are kept in those tiny pots in pet shops. But just because they survive in those pots doesn't mean they enjoy it. Like any other fish, Bettas will be much happier if they live in a tank which at least allows them to swim around a little. They make excellent fish for peaceful community tanks as long as you keep one male and any number of females. The tank should have hiding places for the females to take a break from the male's constant harassment.

Female Male Male

Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Supplies Click HERE   Aquarium Supplies and Equipment

  Do not buy an aquarium fish  if you are innately cheap or lazy!

This hobby will only bring you constant annoyance and irritation while your fish will die a slow death for their 'inconvenience'.

However, if you are one who has a sincere enthusiasm for the aquatic world, and one who is willing to invest the money, time, and occasional effort to support your adopted friends -- You will be rewarded with a glimpse into a world few know first hand. And this relationship should develop into a better understanding and respect for 'our' world.

Many Thanks to "Matt Rogers"

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