Question.......I am new Aquarist and have a ton of questions. I recently purchased a 20g tank, AquaClear 200 Filter, and a Maxi-Jet 250 powerhead with foam mechanical filter. I also have a bubble wall so in effect I have double direction water movement (Back to front from the bubblewall and side to side from the powerhead) The tank has a few plastic grasses and duckweed with very porous rock (Boiled for over an hour) and a chunk of driftwood (Also boiled (Note: it still will not sit on the bottom without being weighted down.. any ideas??))

Now, the tank was purchased on the 5th of this month, and two days later 3 Gold Dust Mollys and a Black Lyretail Molly added. We also had a Bala Shark in there but he only made it one evening then found dead in the morning and promptly removed. I know it is heavily into the "New Tank Cycle" but my concerns are over the well being of the fish. Ammonia is VERY HIGH!! Last night tested at 5 ppm, Nitrates are up and so is PH at around 7.5. 4 days ago my female GD Molly gave birth to 15 fry of which 3 died immediately and the rest appear to be doing fine in a plastic nursery floating in the tank. While learning the feeding process, it appears that I overfed and promptly suffered a Fungus problem whereas tons of cottonlike flotsam appeared throughout the water. The water has become steadily milker and milker until today you would have difficulty telling what the backdrop was. We treated the water with Maracyn (After removing the Activated Charcoal filter from the AquaClear) for three days. During this time we netted out all of the visible floating junk that we could and rinsed the Foam filter from the powerhead as it built up on there. Now my water has a "Smoke like" appearance. You can actually see it like looking up at the fluorescent lights in a smoky bar! I asked my local aquarium store person if I could use just a LITTLE Ammo-Carb to knock down the ammonia levels just a little, not enough to stop the cycle but to aid in the survival of my fish! He said NO and also not to do any water changes till the cycle has finished. What's your opinion?

I am using two capfuls of CYCLE every other day to help with the process but I know it takes each dose of CYCLE a few days to start. I am fearful for the well being of my fish and fry. Is there nothing I can do? John

Answer....John, PATIENCE..Your cycle will complete itself, just give it time. do not use all those medications, they only destroy the bacteria that you are trying to culture. Do not populate with any additional fish and keep your feedings especially light for the first four weeks. remove any dead fish and excess food that you can. Your first water change should only be performed after your ammonia and nitrites are testing near zero. On your first 1/4 water change vacuum lightly not disturbing the substrate too much. This is where your nitrifying bacteria grow and you do not want to damage it once it starts to seed itself in your gravel bed. Later it will be important to vacuum more deeply in your gravel to extract excess nitrates the last stage of biological breakdown and a sign of a complete cycle. E-Mail me if you have more questions .

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Question....Actually, after this weekends water change the nitrites dropped down to .25 ppm and ammonia is still 0 ppm. I think my tank has finally cycled! Thanks for the help. Will try to scan some pix in soon.

Brandon

Answer.......Brandon, Congrats ....Sometimes it just takes time. Looking forward to see some pictures of your tanks.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Members may ask questions on any aquarium related subject and look for information returned on their own personal email faster than most can look it up.

If you are really serious

about this hobby,

check out

Andre's Aquarium Club's

SPECIAL

Lifetime

MEMBERSHIP

Guess or diagnosis?

It is just not possible to properly diagnose fish disease and health problems without first examining the affected fish and possibly the fish's environment. After all, would you trust a doctor who told you what was wrong with you without asking any questions or carrying out any examination?

Would you phone up your vet and expect him to tell you over the telephone what was wrong with the family cat or dog?

Obviously the answer to both these questions is no.

Trying to guess what is wrong, (and that is all that people do if they don't carry out any investigation), is obviously the wrong way to go about things, unless of course you believe that aquarists and dealers have some form of mystical powers not possessed by vets and doctors! Common sense and our own experience tell us that the right way to proceed is to establish what is wrong and why, before we carry out any treatments.

Detective work

It is important to realise that fish are aquatic animals and can be affected by most of the diseases that typically affect other animals, as well as diseases and health problems that are exclusive to an aquatic environment. However, unlike most terrestrial animals, they have a limited response to disease. For example, you will not see a fish holding up a sore fin, or limping or even whimpering. Their response is limited to refusing food, lethargy, jumping, rubbing or flashing, gasping at the surface and isolating themselves. There may be minor variations, but essentially these are the only ways that they can let us know there is something amiss.

The main point is that they will exhibit some of these signs irrespective of what the problem is. So we see the same responses to poor water quality, gill disease, parasites, heart problems etc. Given that they will respond in much the same way, irrespective of the cause, it is simply impossible to make a definite diagnosis based purely on behaviour.

Trying to determine what is causing the problem is a little like detective work as there are so many probable causes. Behaviour is just one small part of the puzzle. The initial aim in diagnosing health problems is to collect as much information as possible. When we have this information we can then make a balanced assessment of both the problem and the likely cause.

The Fish Doc  

http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/index.htm

Question....What a great website! I've been looking for a good one about aquariums to get answers about my daughter's new setup. We have a 10 gallon freshwater aquarium. She wants to have pink kissing gourami as her first fish, but I'm having trouble finding a pet shop in our area with what seem to be knowledgeable employees. I have tested our water, and it has a 6.2PH. Will this be acceptable for the gourami she wants, or should we start looking for other species? I have a kit to change the PH, but I would prefer not to have to do that. Can you recommend a couple of species that are good first fish for her aquarium?

Thanks for your help!

AKA

Answer.......AKA, 6.2 is a very low ph for a new aquarium. Your water must be naturally low in ph right out of the tap. I would think you live somewhere in the south or eastern coastal plain by the water Ph you are indicating. Kissing gourami would be a good first fish, however they prefer a little closer to neutral environment. Any Tetra is a perfect fish for a small aquarium, especially since you indicate that your ph is so low as well. Changing the Ph can be a tricky thing sometimes. When changing Ph it is important not to cause a ph swing too quickly. This causes fish stress. Tetras come from an environment that is naturally low in Ph.

I would also recommend a live bearer such as the swordtail and the blue three spot gourami as great fish to start with.

Also remember kissing gouramies often grow to sizes that are larger than what a 10 gallon can accommodate.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Units of Measure

1 Centimeter = 2.54 inches

1 Meter = 3.28 feet

1 Liter = 1.0567 quarts

1 Kilogram = 2.204 pounds

1 Gram = 0.0353 ounces

1 Metric ton = 2204.62 pounds

Metric System

Chart

Recommended Reef Tank Parameters

-Calcium...................380 to 450 mg/L

-Magnesium.........1000 to 1320 mg/L

-Alkalinity........................8 to 11 dKH

-Ammonia..........................<.2 mg/L

-Nitrites..............................<.2 mg/L

-Nitrates.............................<10 mg/L

-Phosphates........................<.03 mg/L

-Specific Gravity.............1.021 - 1.024

-Water Temp..........................78f to 80f

-Water Flow > 5 times tank volume per hour

or

Fresh Water Aquarium

PH : 6.8 – 7.5

Alkalinity: 60 – 100 ppm or 3 – 5 dKH

Hardness: 160 – 230 ppm or 3 – 6 dGH

Temperature: between 75 – 80 F

Ammonia: 0.0 ppm

Nitrites: 0.0 ppm

Nitrates: 0.0 – 30 ppm

-Water Flow > 5 times tank volume per hour

To change Fahrenheit (F) to Celsius (C)

To convert from F to C, subtract 32 from the F temperature and then multiply by 5/9. (70 F -32 = 38 x 5/9 = 21.1 C).

To change temperature given in Fahrenheit (F) to Celsius (C)

Start with (F); subtract 32; multiply by 5; divide by 9; the answer is (C)

To change temperature given in Celsius (C) to Fahrenheit (F)

Start with (C); multiply by 9; divide by 5; add on 32; the answer is (F)

Temperature Unit Conversions

Chemicals

The aspiring hobbyist will soon discover that chemicals can be purchased for any number of things: destroying algae, softening water, keeping the pH stable, adding bacteria, neutralizing ammonia and any number of other things. While each of these products may have their proper use, it is suggested that the aquariast stay away from excess use of chemicals whenever possible. Although these chemicals have been tested to determine their levels of safety for the aquarium, the full effects cannot be known, nor can the effects of their interaction be known. Some substances are harmful to the beneficial bacteria or plants in your tank even if they do not directly affect your fish. Further, there are usually natural ways to duplicate the effects of many of these products. So, unless you are treating a problem, or unless your local water supply is simply not suitable for fish without treatment, it is generally better to leave well enough alone.

Fish disease treatments should be straightforward provided that the problem has been accurately diagnosed at an early stage.  However, it is very important to bear in mind that many fish are killed every year by the improper use of medications.

Natural systems, such as reef structures, have an amazingly complex balance of organisms. Without balance, the organisms in such systems would quickly die out. In an aquarium, the naturally balanced environment becomes unbalanced. This unbalance occurs in everything from the water to the in habitants in the aquarium. The bottom line is that, given time, problems will occur in an aquarium, and the natural systems that would keep the problems in check are not present.

Question......I am just getting ready to set up my 90 gal. marine tank for the first time, I am new to the salt water tank but I have had fresh before. The main equipment that I am missing is the UV light sterilizer and a protein skimmer, I may also need a heater but do not know what type. What price range am I looking at for each piece of equipment? Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated. Thanks!  R. Valverde

Answer...... I do not recommend UV sterilizers, but I can recommend a good protein skimmer. The protein skimmer I am speaking of is a Seaclone made by Aquarium systems, it is for tanks up to 90 gallons. It costs about $90.00. The heater of my choice is the Visi-therm heater also by Aquarium Systems. You will need a 300 watt heater. It will cost about $25.00-$35.00.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Question.........Is there any type of mechanical filter that will not filter out the salt in a marine aquarium? Any information you have will be appreciated.Thanks... Sean

Answer.........Sean, the salt will not be filtered out by your mechanical filter. Salt is very soluble and is permeable through filter media. The only thing that extracts your salt is creepage(salt sticking to your hood and outer edge of the aquarium). This creepage however is not enough to alter your specific gravity significantly though. if you have any other questions write again.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Question........Hi, my name is Norman, I have been playing with aquariums for about 4 years now and I just purchase a big tank w/stand and canopy that is 18"w x 24"h x 72" .. it has a 350 magnum filter and 2 fluval4 filters at each corner and a ton of gravel.

I got very lucky, my cousin bought a house and a tank came with it. He didn't want it so he sold it to me (very cheap). I have a 35 gal with 20 cardinals, 2 panda discus, 2 rams, 3 elephant nose and 5 cory cats. There is plenty of plants and the tank has been doing fine for about 8 months now.

My question is: 1. How many gal is the big tank? and I would like some idea's on possible setup's. I would like to go salt water but don't have the money, probably never will. The most I can spend is about $150 right now and maybe about 20$/month. If I put all the fish that I have from the 35 gal tank into the big tank how much would it cost me to setup the 35 gal as a salt water tank? Any suggestion?   Thank You, Norman

Answer.........Norman, your tank is a 135 gallon aquarium. This tank would be ideal as either a saltwater aquarium or an African Cichlid tank. Of course the salt water tank would be expensive to set up and maintain. African Cichlids are a very colorful alternative. there are many species available to the hobbyist and they are a very interesting fish. if you were to convert your 35 in to salt it would still be expensive, and it would probably be better to start with a little bigger tank. It can be done, but it is a bit more difficult. Also it sounds like you have a very nice environment going in your 35 gallon , why disturb it. To me aquariums are a long lasting commitment and once you set it up one way it is a shame to destroy the environment you have created to make way for new environments that may or may not be as successful. let me know what you decide and keep in touch, I can answer any questions you may have which ever way you decide to go.

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Question........ Hi...came into the office only to find my Babyface (2") with one eye filmed over and his mouth swollen (same side as the eye) so much that he can only open it halfway....looks like he's had dental work.... Put him in the hospital tank, water quality in both tanks is pristine, temp72, put in salt, clout and tri-sulfa. He also had white spots on his fins and body. He's eating well, fresh peas, medicated food, and he's active. When I give them algae wafers, they are voracious chasing them around the tank. If one gets wedged behind the uptake chamber, he just forces his face behind it to try and get it....Could this be injury related/bacterial/parasitic or all three? Does this stuff resolve or am I going to have to change his name to One-eyed Jack? They have been doing so well and now this. The white spots seem to have started to clear...there's only one or two now. He is such a dark orange/calico, it is hard to tell if there are fin hemorrhages or not. I do have a heater if raising the temp would help...I've read conflicting info on that one. Any ideas/info would be much appreciated. Susan

Answer........ Susan, don't raise the heat. goldfish are cold water fish and raising the heat will only further spread any bacterial or fungal infection. The sores that you mention sound like possibly this gold fish may have gotten drawn into the uptake of your rear filter. you mentioned that he goes behind the intake to get food, perhaps he got stuck on the intake for a while causing this injury. I have seen this occur with goldfish often since they are clumsy swimmers. As far as medicating it is possible to use too many medications at once creating a deadly cocktail of ingredients. Be Careful!!!! Natural improvement of water quality is still the best remedy and treatment. Extra stress coat in the water would be a good thing to help stimulate healing slime coat growth. Good luck healing your fishes ailment.

"The Aquarium Doctor" ..

Our interest extends beyond these pages, to promoting conservation and aquaculture research projects worldwide-from helping understand environmental changes, to saving the endangered reefs, and endangered species with captive bred freshwater and marine life.

The Aquarium Vet

All livestock is shipped overnight.

SALTWATER

FISH

ORDER YOUR SALTWATER FISH HERE!

Order coral and

other invertebrate!

Alive Arrival Guarantee:

We guarantee every fish, clam, coral and invertebrate that leaves our tanks will ARRIVE ALIVE at its destination and will STAY ALIVE for at least 5 days after leaving our system.

Why aquarium fish die..

Fish health is a complex and sometimes baffling subject. The key to relatively trouble free fish keeping is prevention rather than cure. This means providing optimum conditions that encourage good health. It is equally important to nip minor problems in the bud before they get out of hand. Aimed mainly at beginners and intermediates, these key pages provide a 'core' understanding of the basics of fish health.

The importance of water quality

Water testing for healthy fish

The importance of water testing. Look after the water and the fish will look after themselves (most of the time).

Fish are like leaky parcels of water swimming around in a pond or tank. No wonder water quality has such a dramatic affect on their well-being.

Fish disease is really no different to disease in any other animal. An overview of aquatic disease, diagnostic methods and treatments.

The essential fish health work-up. When fish are sick, you have two basic options. You can simply try and guess what's wrong (the most common method) and usually get it wrong. The alternative is a l diagnosis.

Fish disease treatments

Find out a little more about common treatment methods before you put any 'medications' into your pond or tank.

Biological filtration

Why do we use biological filters on tanks? This essential piece of equipment is often poorly understood.

New tank/pond syndrome kills tens of thousands of fish every year.

The Nitrogen Cycle

Question....Hello, got a quick question. I just noticed that in one of our tanks I saw a bunch of little white worms, what are they? And is this a bad thing?

Thanks,  Ken

Answer.......The Little worms are nothing to worry about. They are one of many small organisms that grow in aquariums in response to fish wast. They merely feed on the organic matter that accumulates in the tank. A good remedy for this problem would be to add a tablespoon of non iodized or sea salt per 10 gallons . The salt acts as a disinfecting agent and slows the spread of the out of control bacteria. Try this remedy and let know how it works. Do not forget to change 25 percent of your water at least every two weeks.....

"The Aquarium Doctor"

Question....We have had an aquarium, 10 gal., for about 4 weeks. Mollies & tetras totaling (8) & two algae eaters. The water is yellowish/ brown. Why is this?

Thank You, Micheal

Answer.......Michael, The brown color is most likely ammonia. It would be recommended to change about 1/4 of your water about every 3 days until you water turns clear again.

Remember always use a declorinater, because ammonia bonds with chlorine to make chloramine, very deadly to the fish.Small water changes greatly reduce the risk of chloramine from forming. You may look at our sight for topics related to filtration and examine whether your filtration is sufficient for your situation. Good filtration goes along way in reducing ammonia by products.

"Aquarium Doctor"

Click Here

Fish Diseases

Fish have some unique anatomical and physical characteristics that are different from mammals, however, they still possess the same organ systems that are present in other animals. All fish are poikilothermic and must be able to adapt to changes in water temperature. Fish live in a variety of temperatures ranging from less than 0°C to hot geothermal springs. Yet, each species of fish must live in its particular specific temperature range. Abrupt temperature changes in the water can be lethal to fish.

Using "medications"

If possible, make a definite diagnosis rather than a presumption or guess. This enables specific targeting of both the problem and cause. Follow the diagnosis guide

Check, double check and get someone else to check if you are not 100% sure of the volume of the pond or tank.

If there are signs of distress remove the "patients" or rapidly dilute the treated water

It is always advisable to carry out a follow-up examination to ensure the effectiveness of the medication and if necessary switch to another.

The use of a quarantine or hospital tank is advisable at all times.

Aquarium Arithmetic

Measuring and Calculating Volumes

This page contains information and advice on how to do some measurements and calculations that you may need.

Measuring inside

I get 17.75 x 11.75 x 11.75 = 2450.6, multiplied by 0.00433 is 10.6 gallons.

Calculate Volume In Gallons ( US )

*PLEASE NOTE THAT THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON DISEASES AND OTHER PROBLEMS IS INTENDED AS A GUIDE ONLY, AND THE INFORMATION IS GIVEN IN GOOD FAITH TO ASSIST. HOWEVER, THE AQUARIUM DOCTOR CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME OF APPLYING ANY OF THE ADVICE GIVEN HERE. THE USER MUST ACCEPT THAT RESPONSIBILITY.